Goingbarefoot's Guidebook to Going Around Durham
Food Scene
Bar Virgile 105 S. Mangum Street http://www.barvirgile.com
This is my favorite bar/café in town. The only thing missing is someone like Shirley Horn or Blossom Dearie sitting a little baby grand in the back corner… Owned by Nana’s Scott Howell & partners, Bar Virgille is a tiny bar & restaurant just across the RR tracks from the box office corner of DPAC. Creative, classic cocktail list, with a beautiful small plates menu that upholds the James Beard multiple nominated chef’s traditions and standards. Always busy. Every option delectable. They don’t take reservations. Worth the wait - if you have to wait. If you haven’t been there by the time you’re supposed to be leaving town, then just stay over another night to go to Bar Virgile and you’ll be glad you did. It’s less than a mile & a half from here. I wish I had another Airbnb guest space just above Bar Virgile.
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Bar Virgile
105 S Mangum StBar Virgile 105 S. Mangum Street http://www.barvirgile.com
This is my favorite bar/café in town. The only thing missing is someone like Shirley Horn or Blossom Dearie sitting a little baby grand in the back corner… Owned by Nana’s Scott Howell & partners, Bar Virgille is a tiny bar & restaurant just across the RR tracks from the box office corner of DPAC. Creative, classic cocktail list, with a beautiful small plates menu that upholds the James Beard multiple nominated chef’s traditions and standards. Always busy. Every option delectable. They don’t take reservations. Worth the wait - if you have to wait. If you haven’t been there by the time you’re supposed to be leaving town, then just stay over another night to go to Bar Virgile and you’ll be glad you did. It’s less than a mile & a half from here. I wish I had another Airbnb guest space just above Bar Virgile.
Mateo 109 West Chapel Hill St. http://mateotapas.com/ 919.530.8700 Closed Mondays 1.4 miles
I’d probably say Mateo offers quite likely THE best food in downtown Durham. Located in the old Book Exchange at Five Points downtown, Mateo is a tapas-type restaurant that layers essential Southern touches & flavors onto classic Spanish cuisine. Chef Matt Kelly continually creates inspiring combinations for the constantly-changing menu. Don’t expect standard first course/second course type dining. Your various plates are brought to your table whenever they’re finished being prepared in the kitchen and usually, your entire party will just sit and sample a bit of every item ordered by everyone in your group. Plates are continually going around the table. You can’t go wrong. The restaurant remains very, very busy - as do its sister downtown restaurants Mothers & Sons and St. James Seafood. Reservations are advised, unless you’re at the door soon after opening or later in the evening.
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Mateo Bar de Tapas
109 W Chapel Hill StMateo 109 West Chapel Hill St. http://mateotapas.com/ 919.530.8700 Closed Mondays 1.4 miles
I’d probably say Mateo offers quite likely THE best food in downtown Durham. Located in the old Book Exchange at Five Points downtown, Mateo is a tapas-type restaurant that layers essential Southern touches & flavors onto classic Spanish cuisine. Chef Matt Kelly continually creates inspiring combinations for the constantly-changing menu. Don’t expect standard first course/second course type dining. Your various plates are brought to your table whenever they’re finished being prepared in the kitchen and usually, your entire party will just sit and sample a bit of every item ordered by everyone in your group. Plates are continually going around the table. You can’t go wrong. The restaurant remains very, very busy - as do its sister downtown restaurants Mothers & Sons and St. James Seafood. Reservations are advised, unless you’re at the door soon after opening or later in the evening.
Guglhupf Bakery & Café www.guglhupf.com
2706 Durham Chapel Hill Blvd. 919.401.2600
A heavily German-influenced, wonderful European bakery, patisserie & café. Breakfast, lunch, dinner, brunch. Indoor & outdoor dining. Worth the visit. You order at the counter for breakfast & lunch; table service for dinner. You’ll find their menus & daily bread schedule online. Closed Mondays. Will be on your right on Durham/Chapel Hill Blvd. 1.5 miles
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Guglhupf Bakery, Cafe & Biergarten
2706 Durham-Chapel Hill BlvdGuglhupf Bakery & Café www.guglhupf.com
2706 Durham Chapel Hill Blvd. 919.401.2600
A heavily German-influenced, wonderful European bakery, patisserie & café. Breakfast, lunch, dinner, brunch. Indoor & outdoor dining. Worth the visit. You order at the counter for breakfast & lunch; table service for dinner. You’ll find their menus & daily bread schedule online. Closed Mondays. Will be on your right on Durham/Chapel Hill Blvd. 1.5 miles
• Durham Distillery, 711 Washington St. www.durhamdistillery.com
One of three liquor distilleries in downtown now, and one that’s getting a lot of attention for their Conniption Gins and “Damn Fine” line of specialty liqueurs. You can reserve a fun distillery tour with them, if you’re over 21. The on-site tour is filled with fun information and a flavor-filled tasting at the bar afterwards. You’re permitted by law to purchase one bottle on site at the distillery after a tour. But their spirits are also available at local ABC stores and in some of the better bars & restaurants in town. (Their Navy Strength Conniption Gin beat out Hendricks for the big prize at the international spirits show.) Call them at 919.937.2121 to make your reservation for a tour. A fun event.
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Durham Distillery
711 Washington St• Durham Distillery, 711 Washington St. www.durhamdistillery.com
One of three liquor distilleries in downtown now, and one that’s getting a lot of attention for their Conniption Gins and “Damn Fine” line of specialty liqueurs. You can reserve a fun distillery tour with them, if you’re over 21. The on-site tour is filled with fun information and a flavor-filled tasting at the bar afterwards. You’re permitted by law to purchase one bottle on site at the distillery after a tour. But their spirits are also available at local ABC stores and in some of the better bars & restaurants in town. (Their Navy Strength Conniption Gin beat out Hendricks for the big prize at the international spirits show.) Call them at 919.937.2121 to make your reservation for a tour. A fun event.
Drinks & Nightlife
Alley 26 320 East Chapel Hill St. www.alleytwentysix.com/
Open nightly from 4pm til 2am, they do let you sit in the alley when the weather’s good. Inside, it’s a cozy, top-notch cocktail bar that’s an inventive, congenial & welcoming place for grown-ups, with service by some of THE best bartenders in Durham. Small plates & nibbles also offered. Alley 26’s staff is a well-oiled, efficient machine; always friendly, always with the right thing at the right time, and always happy to have you on their turf.
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Alley Twenty Six
320 E Chapel Hill StAlley 26 320 East Chapel Hill St. www.alleytwentysix.com/
Open nightly from 4pm til 2am, they do let you sit in the alley when the weather’s good. Inside, it’s a cozy, top-notch cocktail bar that’s an inventive, congenial & welcoming place for grown-ups, with service by some of THE best bartenders in Durham. Small plates & nibbles also offered. Alley 26’s staff is a well-oiled, efficient machine; always friendly, always with the right thing at the right time, and always happy to have you on their turf.
Sightseeing
American Tobacco campus www.americantobaccocampus.com
1 mile away, at the corner of Blackwell St. & Jackie Robinson Way
Once home to the largest tobacco manufacturing company in the world and the birthplace of Lucky Strikes, the sprawling collection of brick buildings was built between 1874 and 1950. After sitting dormant for a number of years once the tobacco business had vacated Durham, WRAL-TV executive and Durham Bulls owner Jim Goodmon purchased the American Tobacco complex in 2001. Its total reclamation & visionary adaptive reuse into the amazing hub it is today is the largest historic renovation undertaken in NC to date. In many ways, the development of American Tobacco, construction of Durham Bulls Athletic Park and the Durham Performing Arts Center became the driving catalysts of downtown Durham’s renaissance. American Tobacco now houses the studios of WUNC North Carolina Public Radio, Full Frame Documentary Theatre & Film Festival, the American Underground tech & startup incubator, & much more. In the 50s, incoming freshmen at Duke were taken on a tour of American Tobacco as part of orientation week and were each given a free pack of cigarettes upon completion of the tour. Yes, he just said that.
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American Tobacco Campus
300 Blackwell StAmerican Tobacco campus www.americantobaccocampus.com
1 mile away, at the corner of Blackwell St. & Jackie Robinson Way
Once home to the largest tobacco manufacturing company in the world and the birthplace of Lucky Strikes, the sprawling collection of brick buildings was built between 1874 and 1950. After sitting dormant for a number of years once the tobacco business had vacated Durham, WRAL-TV executive and Durham Bulls owner Jim Goodmon purchased the American Tobacco complex in 2001. Its total reclamation & visionary adaptive reuse into the amazing hub it is today is the largest historic renovation undertaken in NC to date. In many ways, the development of American Tobacco, construction of Durham Bulls Athletic Park and the Durham Performing Arts Center became the driving catalysts of downtown Durham’s renaissance. American Tobacco now houses the studios of WUNC North Carolina Public Radio, Full Frame Documentary Theatre & Film Festival, the American Underground tech & startup incubator, & much more. In the 50s, incoming freshmen at Duke were taken on a tour of American Tobacco as part of orientation week and were each given a free pack of cigarettes upon completion of the tour. Yes, he just said that.
21c Museum Hotel & Counting House Restaurant 111 N. Corcoran
www.21cmuseumhotels.com/durham 919.956.6700 1.3 miles
Even if it’s only for a cocktail or just to wander the galleries, you should find time to stop in at 21c while you’re in town. The 4th 21c property to be opened in the US, Durham’s historic Hill Building has been transformed into a remarkable contemporary (21st century) art museum, hotel, restaurant and bar. Every 21c is distinct to its own city and the history of the building it occupies. The main gallery exhibits rotate approximately every five months. Other installations are site-specific commissions or are permanent displays for a particular hotel property. The restaurant, Counting House (the building was a bank, after all) features an evolving American/Southern-influenced menu that pays creative homage to Durham’s heritage. Ask to see The Vault if it happens to be accessible while you’re there (you can do lunch in The Vault. All the safety deposit boxes are still there – though probably empty…) The bar on the main floor by the restaurant is a great place to people-and-art watch while enjoying a cocktail. You can also grab your drink and head upstairs to the galleries. The galleries are actually open to the public 24 hours a day. If you see someone wandering the gallery in their pajamas, then they’re likely staying in the hotel so you should not feel overdressed. Each 21c is home to its own flock of penguins – and each city has its own color. Durham’s penguins are fuchsia – and may show up in your bed as you return to your hotel room, be waiting in your shower as a surprise, or come stand by your table when you’re having dinner. Here at 1410 Shepherd Street, I do not have any penguins, although the energetic cats will occasionally bring a sparrow or a mouse to deposit at my feet if I’ve been especially sweet.
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21c Museum Hotel Durham
111 North Corcoran St21c Museum Hotel & Counting House Restaurant 111 N. Corcoran
www.21cmuseumhotels.com/durham 919.956.6700 1.3 miles
Even if it’s only for a cocktail or just to wander the galleries, you should find time to stop in at 21c while you’re in town. The 4th 21c property to be opened in the US, Durham’s historic Hill Building has been transformed into a remarkable contemporary (21st century) art museum, hotel, restaurant and bar. Every 21c is distinct to its own city and the history of the building it occupies. The main gallery exhibits rotate approximately every five months. Other installations are site-specific commissions or are permanent displays for a particular hotel property. The restaurant, Counting House (the building was a bank, after all) features an evolving American/Southern-influenced menu that pays creative homage to Durham’s heritage. Ask to see The Vault if it happens to be accessible while you’re there (you can do lunch in The Vault. All the safety deposit boxes are still there – though probably empty…) The bar on the main floor by the restaurant is a great place to people-and-art watch while enjoying a cocktail. You can also grab your drink and head upstairs to the galleries. The galleries are actually open to the public 24 hours a day. If you see someone wandering the gallery in their pajamas, then they’re likely staying in the hotel so you should not feel overdressed. Each 21c is home to its own flock of penguins – and each city has its own color. Durham’s penguins are fuchsia – and may show up in your bed as you return to your hotel room, be waiting in your shower as a surprise, or come stand by your table when you’re having dinner. Here at 1410 Shepherd Street, I do not have any penguins, although the energetic cats will occasionally bring a sparrow or a mouse to deposit at my feet if I’ve been especially sweet.
Arts & Culture
The Carolina Theatre, 309 W. Morgan St. www.carolinatheatre.org
919.560.3030 (box office) 1.5 miles
Built in 1926 as the Durham Auditorium, it became the Carolina Theatre only a few years later as talking moving pictures came on the scene. Originally one of a dozen legit theatre venues in downtown Durham, the Carolina is now the only one left standing. Housing a 1000-seat performance/film hall, plus two additional cinemas in a wing added during the theatre’s restoration spanning 1988-1994, the Carolina has become the beacon for the rebirth of central downtown Durham. The cinemas (with weekday matinees as well as their evening screenings) present the best in independent film, with films also showing on the screen in Fletcher Hall (the main live-venue auditorium) frequently when the stage is dark. The 60-100 performances presented annually on the main stage span the gamut of genres and demographic appeal with an astounding array of programming for a market this size. The theatre became the lightning rod for the Civil Rights Movement in the 60s, having been a segregated venue since the 20s. Due to citizen involvement and forward-thinking city government, the theatre became a fully-integrated establishment prior to the passing the Civil Rights Act. You can currently see a historical exhibit recounting the period of racial strife on the third floor of the theatre, the level that originally housed the balcony relegated for African American patrons. There is also a historical exhibit on the main floor in the Fletcher Theatre lobby that honors the effort to save the building from demolition and restore the venue to its current state. The second floor historical display tells the story of the volunteers who worked so tirelessly to keep the building from disappearing from the Durham landscape in the 1970s and early 80s. I had the honor and pleasure of managing the Carolina from 1985 til 1988 when we closed to begin the restoration, re-opening on the theatre’s birthday on Feb. 2 in 1994. Many stories abound…
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Carolina Theatre
309 W Morgan StThe Carolina Theatre, 309 W. Morgan St. www.carolinatheatre.org
919.560.3030 (box office) 1.5 miles
Built in 1926 as the Durham Auditorium, it became the Carolina Theatre only a few years later as talking moving pictures came on the scene. Originally one of a dozen legit theatre venues in downtown Durham, the Carolina is now the only one left standing. Housing a 1000-seat performance/film hall, plus two additional cinemas in a wing added during the theatre’s restoration spanning 1988-1994, the Carolina has become the beacon for the rebirth of central downtown Durham. The cinemas (with weekday matinees as well as their evening screenings) present the best in independent film, with films also showing on the screen in Fletcher Hall (the main live-venue auditorium) frequently when the stage is dark. The 60-100 performances presented annually on the main stage span the gamut of genres and demographic appeal with an astounding array of programming for a market this size. The theatre became the lightning rod for the Civil Rights Movement in the 60s, having been a segregated venue since the 20s. Due to citizen involvement and forward-thinking city government, the theatre became a fully-integrated establishment prior to the passing the Civil Rights Act. You can currently see a historical exhibit recounting the period of racial strife on the third floor of the theatre, the level that originally housed the balcony relegated for African American patrons. There is also a historical exhibit on the main floor in the Fletcher Theatre lobby that honors the effort to save the building from demolition and restore the venue to its current state. The second floor historical display tells the story of the volunteers who worked so tirelessly to keep the building from disappearing from the Durham landscape in the 1970s and early 80s. I had the honor and pleasure of managing the Carolina from 1985 til 1988 when we closed to begin the restoration, re-opening on the theatre’s birthday on Feb. 2 in 1994. Many stories abound…
Shopping
Chet Miller, 118 West Parrish Street www.chetmillershop.com
Open 10 til 6 Tuesday thru Saturday, this is the newest venture for Jennings Brody – and is probably THE most fun gift shop in town, just a few feet down Parish St. from the front door of 21c. A really creative, curatorial assembly of specialty items, with a concentration of “cocktail” or “Durham” related gift choices. It’s worth the visit, and it will make you wish you had more money.
Chet Miller
118 W Parrish StChet Miller, 118 West Parrish Street www.chetmillershop.com
Open 10 til 6 Tuesday thru Saturday, this is the newest venture for Jennings Brody – and is probably THE most fun gift shop in town, just a few feet down Parish St. from the front door of 21c. A really creative, curatorial assembly of specialty items, with a concentration of “cocktail” or “Durham” related gift choices. It’s worth the visit, and it will make you wish you had more money.
Stone Brothers & Byrd, 700 Washington St.www.stonebrothers.com
A local garden and agricultural supply shop since 1914. In many ways, visiting today is like stepping back into the 1950s in terms of vibe, attitude, service and décor. And I mean that all as a giant compliment to George & Fuller and their great place. This is one of my very favorite and most-frequented places in town. Molasses from a barrel, country ham, homemade jams & jellies, birdseed, plants & shrubbery, fertilizer, terra cotta pots, bulbs, herbs & veggies, lawn mower repair – you name it. I feel like it was almost yesterday when they finally started accepting credit cards… I’ll always remember the first time I was there. Probably around the year 2000. I’d stacked up a car full of plants & pots – and pulled out my credit card when it came time to settle up. “Oops – we don’t take those yet,” they replied. When I offered to rush back home and get my checkbook if they’d just keep my order together til I got back, their reply was “No need to do that. You can just send us your check later on – you look like a decent person to us and we trust you.” I’ve probably walked thru their doors almost on a weekly basis since then. They take cards now – but they still just “send me a bill” and I just “send ‘em a check.”
Stone Brothers & Byrd
937 Washington StStone Brothers & Byrd, 700 Washington St.www.stonebrothers.com
A local garden and agricultural supply shop since 1914. In many ways, visiting today is like stepping back into the 1950s in terms of vibe, attitude, service and décor. And I mean that all as a giant compliment to George & Fuller and their great place. This is one of my very favorite and most-frequented places in town. Molasses from a barrel, country ham, homemade jams & jellies, birdseed, plants & shrubbery, fertilizer, terra cotta pots, bulbs, herbs & veggies, lawn mower repair – you name it. I feel like it was almost yesterday when they finally started accepting credit cards… I’ll always remember the first time I was there. Probably around the year 2000. I’d stacked up a car full of plants & pots – and pulled out my credit card when it came time to settle up. “Oops – we don’t take those yet,” they replied. When I offered to rush back home and get my checkbook if they’d just keep my order together til I got back, their reply was “No need to do that. You can just send us your check later on – you look like a decent person to us and we trust you.” I’ve probably walked thru their doors almost on a weekly basis since then. They take cards now – but they still just “send me a bill” and I just “send ‘em a check.”