Eleni’s guidebook
Local stuff
Vincennes neighbourhood
Local market with fresh produce, artisanal products, flowers - every Tues, Fri and Sun. 8am to 1pm.
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Marché Vincennes
Rue de FontenayLocal market with fresh produce, artisanal products, flowers - every Tues, Fri and Sun. 8am to 1pm.
Le Drapeau
18 Av. de ParisNice traditional French food, with a view of the castle.
On the corner of this street! It attracts a relaxed, local crowd and has quality French food and live music Fri & Sat nights.
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Le Chateau Des Vignerons
17 Rue des VigneronsOn the corner of this street! It attracts a relaxed, local crowd and has quality French food and live music Fri & Sat nights.
Also on this street, another great restaurant. Christophe is a one man show as the owner/chef/waiter at his organic vegetarian restaurant.
Bioteafood
34 Av. Franklin RooseveltAlso on this street, another great restaurant. Christophe is a one man show as the owner/chef/waiter at his organic vegetarian restaurant.
My local supermarket, close to the apartment, conveniently located outside the metro so you can pop by and grab dinner ingredients on your way home. Easy to locate things, includes fresh produce
you can hand-pick. Also great for souvenirs (fleur de sel, nice chocolate, candy, mustards etc.).
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Monoprix
70-72 Rue du Faubourg du TempleMy local supermarket, close to the apartment, conveniently located outside the metro so you can pop by and grab dinner ingredients on your way home. Easy to locate things, includes fresh produce
you can hand-pick. Also great for souvenirs (fleur de sel, nice chocolate, candy, mustards etc.).
Has more variety than my regular Monoprix (eg. more teas and an upstairs mini-department store) but only carries packaged fruit & veg.
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Monoprix
70-72 Rue du Faubourg du TempleHas more variety than my regular Monoprix (eg. more teas and an upstairs mini-department store) but only carries packaged fruit & veg.
Franprix
19 Bd Henri IVStays open until 10pm, even on Sundays!
Easy to access, newly restored, worth a visit if you want to see a medieval castle while here, interesting history, was the royal residence before Versailles. Beautiful chapel. Buy tickets from inside the walls. You can stroll around for free but need a ticket to go into the chateau or the chapel.
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Chateau de Vincennes (keep)
9 Av. CarnotEasy to access, newly restored, worth a visit if you want to see a medieval castle while here, interesting history, was the royal residence before Versailles. Beautiful chapel. Buy tickets from inside the walls. You can stroll around for free but need a ticket to go into the chateau or the chapel.
Largest park in Paris, great for walks in fine weather, maybe not after dark (easy to get lost), there are lakes in different parts of the park. It’s huge.
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Bois de Vincennes
Route de la PyramideLargest park in Paris, great for walks in fine weather, maybe not after dark (easy to get lost), there are lakes in different parts of the park. It’s huge.
NATURALIA
24 Rue BeaurepaireLocal all-organic health food store
Frozen food heaven, good for all types of pre-made or frozen produce. Their salt & pepper potato chips (not frozen) are my favourites. If you don’t want to cook, get something from here.
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Picard
15-17 Av. Simon BolivarFrozen food heaven, good for all types of pre-made or frozen produce. Their salt & pepper potato chips (not frozen) are my favourites. If you don’t want to cook, get something from here.
Bruno Collet : Fromager-Affineur
19 Rue du MidiClassic fromagerie, top of the range.
Mademoiselle Amande
14 Rue SaulpicVery chic deli/café, makes great lunches.
Les Lavoirs
80 Av. de ParisLocal laundromat, if you particularly need a clothes dryer!
For any of your printing needs.
Monday:2–7PM
Tuesday:9AM–1PM, 2–7PM
Wednesday:9AM–1PM, 2–7PM
Thursday:9AM–1PM, 2–7PM
Friday:9AM–1PM, 2–7PM
Saturday:Closed
Sunday:10AM–1PM
Copy Etc.
22 Rue Robert GiraudineauFor any of your printing needs.
Monday:2–7PM
Tuesday:9AM–1PM, 2–7PM
Wednesday:9AM–1PM, 2–7PM
Thursday:9AM–1PM, 2–7PM
Friday:9AM–1PM, 2–7PM
Saturday:Closed
Sunday:10AM–1PM
The local bakery. Good bread and croissants. Go somewhere fancier for cakes etc. Closed Tuesdays.
Top Sucré
38 Av. Franklin RooseveltThe local bakery. Good bread and croissants. Go somewhere fancier for cakes etc. Closed Tuesdays.
Parisian sights/experiences
Paris' secret park in the sky, I suggest stocking up on produce at the Bastille markets, then joining up with the Promenade Plantée and walking along it before having a picnic at Jardin de Reuilly - Paul Pernin (which has sparkling water coming out of the drinking fountain!)
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Coulée Verte René-Dumont
1 Coulée Verte René-DumontParis' secret park in the sky, I suggest stocking up on produce at the Bastille markets, then joining up with the Promenade Plantée and walking along it before having a picnic at Jardin de Reuilly - Paul Pernin (which has sparkling water coming out of the drinking fountain!)
I go every week without fail. Fantastic for foodies, on Thurs and Sun mornings. Bring cash. Get a crêpe (sweet) or a galette (savory, made from gluten free buckwheat flour). The crêpe stand with the sign "Produits Bretons, crepes, gallettes" (look for yellow and white stripes) is the best. So good!
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Bastille Market
13 Bd BeaumarchaisI go every week without fail. Fantastic for foodies, on Thurs and Sun mornings. Bring cash. Get a crêpe (sweet) or a galette (savory, made from gluten free buckwheat flour). The crêpe stand with the sign "Produits Bretons, crepes, gallettes" (look for yellow and white stripes) is the best. So good!
Jewish quarter, many great boutiques, stores and medieval buildings. Get off Line 1 at Saint-Paul, head up rue Pavée, wander around, it’s amazing. One of the few areas of Paris that wasn’t razed by Haussmann to redevelop. Has an impressive UNIQLO store in a beautifully restored old building with a mini-museum at basement level. This is old-style Paris, pre-Revolution.
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Le Marais
54 Rue Vieille du TempleJewish quarter, many great boutiques, stores and medieval buildings. Get off Line 1 at Saint-Paul, head up rue Pavée, wander around, it’s amazing. One of the few areas of Paris that wasn’t razed by Haussmann to redevelop. Has an impressive UNIQLO store in a beautifully restored old building with a mini-museum at basement level. This is old-style Paris, pre-Revolution.
Beautiful space, oldest planned square in Paris, set 17thC style trend for rest of Europe, very pretty with identical houses facing the square all around it, many famous people have lived here.
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Place des Vosges
Place des VosgesBeautiful space, oldest planned square in Paris, set 17thC style trend for rest of Europe, very pretty with identical houses facing the square all around it, many famous people have lived here.
400 year old market, must visit for foodies and history lovers.
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Marche des Enfants Rouges
39 Rue de Bretagne400 year old market, must visit for foodies and history lovers.
Sitting in the shady courtyard of the Grand Mosque of Paris while sipping fresh mint tea is a lovely experience. Moroccan light food is available too. This is opposite the amazing Grande Galerie de l’Evolution (Natural History Museum)
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Den Store Moské i Paris
2bis Pl. du Puits de l'ErmiteSitting in the shady courtyard of the Grand Mosque of Paris while sipping fresh mint tea is a lovely experience. Moroccan light food is available too. This is opposite the amazing Grande Galerie de l’Evolution (Natural History Museum)
Tango and salsa dancing in Square Tino Rossi in the evenings (as long as the weather is good). Go to join in or simply watch and enjoy the atmosphere.
Quai Saint-Bernard
Quai Saint-BernardTango and salsa dancing in Square Tino Rossi in the evenings (as long as the weather is good). Go to join in or simply watch and enjoy the atmosphere.
Touristy stuff
Because you're in Paris, after all!
Worth a visit if you have time and like art. You won’t see it all in a day, unless you sprint through and absorb nothing. If you decide to go, Napoléon III’s apartments are a must-see.
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Louvre-museet
Rue de RivoliWorth a visit if you have time and like art. You won’t see it all in a day, unless you sprint through and absorb nothing. If you decide to go, Napoléon III’s apartments are a must-see.
If you like sculpture, this is a small but lovely museum, not far from Les Invalides. Has a beautiful garden. Short visit.
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Rodin-museet
77 Rue de VarenneIf you like sculpture, this is a small but lovely museum, not far from Les Invalides. Has a beautiful garden. Short visit.
Stunning formerly private mansion with beautiful artwork and décor. Not as big-ticket as the big museums but absolutely breathtaking. Well worth a visit.
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Jacquemart-André-museet
158 Bd HaussmannStunning formerly private mansion with beautiful artwork and décor. Not as big-ticket as the big museums but absolutely breathtaking. Well worth a visit.
Top museum/gallery in the world, rightly so. It is well worth visiting, though it is always very busy. Book tickets online to avoid the super long queues (you’ll still have to queue, but shorter). This museum can be seen in less than a day, unlike the Louvre.
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Musée d'Orsay
1 Rue de la Légion d'HonneurTop museum/gallery in the world, rightly so. It is well worth visiting, though it is always very busy. Book tickets online to avoid the super long queues (you’ll still have to queue, but shorter). This museum can be seen in less than a day, unlike the Louvre.
La Grande Galerie de l’Evolution has an evocative sound and light show playing all the time in the main, massive, animal-filled space. Don't miss the endangered and extinct animals wing. Get a mint tea and food across the road at the mosque.
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Nationalmuseum for Naturhistorie
57 Rue CuvierLa Grande Galerie de l’Evolution has an evocative sound and light show playing all the time in the main, massive, animal-filled space. Don't miss the endangered and extinct animals wing. Get a mint tea and food across the road at the mosque.
A must-see. At night, the lights come on on the hour. If you want to go up it, be prepared to queue. Only limited numbers can go up to the top levels, and they stop selling tickets for the highest levels at a certain time towards the evening. Consider yourself lucky if you manage to be in the right place/right time in the queue to get tickets to the top at night. It’s still worth being on the lower levels when the lights come on, or any level during the day. Lots of pickpockets around this area.
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Tour Eiffel - Parc du Champ-de-Mars
A must-see. At night, the lights come on on the hour. If you want to go up it, be prepared to queue. Only limited numbers can go up to the top levels, and they stop selling tickets for the highest levels at a certain time towards the evening. Consider yourself lucky if you manage to be in the right place/right time in the queue to get tickets to the top at night. It’s still worth being on the lower levels when the lights come on, or any level during the day. Lots of pickpockets around this area.
Worth climbing for the view from the top. Fascinating to watch 12 roads converge on a giant roundabout. Always busy though. Accessed from underground passages.
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L'Arc de Triomphe de l'Etoile
Worth climbing for the view from the top. Fascinating to watch 12 roads converge on a giant roundabout. Always busy though. Accessed from underground passages.
You can go up to le Ciel de Paris restaurant in this tower, order tea or a meal and get a fabulous view of Paris from just below the level of the panoramic touristy viewing level. Instead of crowds and queues you get to sit down at a table and take in the view. The view is almost as high as the top of Eiffel Tower and equally magnificent.
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Montparnasse Tower
33 Av. du MaineYou can go up to le Ciel de Paris restaurant in this tower, order tea or a meal and get a fabulous view of Paris from just below the level of the panoramic touristy viewing level. Instead of crowds and queues you get to sit down at a table and take in the view. The view is almost as high as the top of Eiffel Tower and equally magnificent.
It’s amazing but takes an entire day. It’s not easy to get to either. But if you want to go, then go. It’s breathtaking!
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Château de Versailles
It’s amazing but takes an entire day. It’s not easy to get to either. But if you want to go, then go. It’s breathtaking!
A masterpiece of Gothic architecture, construction began in the 12th century (1160).
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Notre Dame
A masterpiece of Gothic architecture, construction began in the 12th century (1160).
Probably the most beautiful Gothic church I've ever seen. The stained glass windows are exquisite! There is an entry fee, unlike Notre Dame. Known as Sainte-Chapelle.
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Sainte-Chapelle kirke
10 Bd du PalaisProbably the most beautiful Gothic church I've ever seen. The stained glass windows are exquisite! There is an entry fee, unlike Notre Dame. Known as Sainte-Chapelle.
Gardens
Most Parisian gardens are stunning.
Perfect for a walk on a sunny day or just to relax and people watch on one of its many chairs. In the fountain in the middle, you can see little kids playing with toy boats. The garden also includes tennis courts, kids playgrounds, chess boards and a restaurant.
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Luxembourg-haverne
Perfect for a walk on a sunny day or just to relax and people watch on one of its many chairs. In the fountain in the middle, you can see little kids playing with toy boats. The garden also includes tennis courts, kids playgrounds, chess boards and a restaurant.
The botanic gardens, complete with small zoo. The Natural History Museum is housed within these garden.
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Jardin des Plantes
The botanic gardens, complete with small zoo. The Natural History Museum is housed within these garden.
Next to the Louvre museum. They have water fountains and (pay) toilets. A big garden, with statues and fountains. Worth a visit to read a book or have picnic.
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Tuileries Garden
Place de la ConcordeNext to the Louvre museum. They have water fountains and (pay) toilets. A big garden, with statues and fountains. Worth a visit to read a book or have picnic.
An unexpected treasure in the city! Gorgeous views in a tranquil setting. Perfect for lounging in the grass with a good book. It's not a flat park so be prepared to walk up and down hills. There are cute surprises like a waterfall too.
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Buttes-Chaumont Park
1 Rue BotzarisAn unexpected treasure in the city! Gorgeous views in a tranquil setting. Perfect for lounging in the grass with a good book. It's not a flat park so be prepared to walk up and down hills. There are cute surprises like a waterfall too.
An oval-shaped park, popular with local runners. Has a nice and relaxed vibe to it, especially during the day. There's a huge pond where you can take a breather on the green benches, and a mini carnival area with the Carousel. Lovely place to check out if you're into nature and running!
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Parc Monceau
35 Bd de CourcellesAn oval-shaped park, popular with local runners. Has a nice and relaxed vibe to it, especially during the day. There's a huge pond where you can take a breather on the green benches, and a mini carnival area with the Carousel. Lovely place to check out if you're into nature and running!
The famous ‘Jim Morrison’ cemetery. Oscar Wilde is also buried here. The cemetery is beautiful, and not that far from Vincennes... if you like cemeteries!
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Père-Lachaise
The famous ‘Jim Morrison’ cemetery. Oscar Wilde is also buried here. The cemetery is beautiful, and not that far from Vincennes... if you like cemeteries!
FOOD
One of the best things about Paris
Has great Israeli street food, but always check that they are open before going (they close on Jewish holidays).
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Miznon
22 Rue des EcouffesHas great Israeli street food, but always check that they are open before going (they close on Jewish holidays).
Miznon Canal
37 Quai de ValmyGreat Israeli street food, new location with more seating.
L’Éclair de génie
14 Rue PavéeMouth-watering eclairs, amazing flavours
The BEST croissants in Paris (and pain au chocolat), close to Bastille or Ledru-Rollin Metro stations. Get one and eat it in the square just opposite.
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Blé sucré
7 Rue Antoine VollonThe BEST croissants in Paris (and pain au chocolat), close to Bastille or Ledru-Rollin Metro stations. Get one and eat it in the square just opposite.
My favourite Breton creperie. Their aubergine galette is to die for, as are any other of their galettes and crepes. For dessert, a crepe with salted caramel and a ball of vanilla bean ice cream is perfection.
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La Crêperie de Josselin
67 Rue du MontparnasseMy favourite Breton creperie. Their aubergine galette is to die for, as are any other of their galettes and crepes. For dessert, a crepe with salted caramel and a ball of vanilla bean ice cream is perfection.
Dammann Freres
15 Pl. des VosgesThe finest tea one can buy! Makes great (lightweight) souvenirs.
Exceptional patisserie, not far from the gorgeous Dammann Freres tea shop (101 rue Mouffetard). It’s well worth a trip to this place!
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Carl Marletti
51 Rue CensierExceptional patisserie, not far from the gorgeous Dammann Freres tea shop (101 rue Mouffetard). It’s well worth a trip to this place!
Fantastic rustic sourdough bakery. Their apple tarts are simple, understated and perfect.
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Poilâne
8 Rue du Cherche-MidiFantastic rustic sourdough bakery. Their apple tarts are simple, understated and perfect.
Delicious tartines (open faced sandwiches) on Poilane sourdough bread. A light meal.
Comptoir Poilâne
8 Rue du Cherche-MidiDelicious tartines (open faced sandwiches) on Poilane sourdough bread. A light meal.
The oldest jazz club in Paris. On Sunday nights it has the best live blues in Paris. Head down to the 12th century underground wine cellar, and be sure to get there before 9pm to get a seat.
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Le Caveau des Oubliettes
52 Rue GalandeThe oldest jazz club in Paris. On Sunday nights it has the best live blues in Paris. Head down to the 12th century underground wine cellar, and be sure to get there before 9pm to get a seat.